Dec 08 2008

Home Improvement 101 - Painting Tips

Author: Build WriteWell

How To Paint Home Painting Tips

Color is used to influence how the size of the room feels

The desired Effect
Your Color Choice
Expand space? Use cool, light, or dull colors; minimal contrasts
Shrink space? Include warm, dark, or bright colors; maximum contrasts
Lower ceiling? Try warm colors and dark tones
Raise ceiling? Use cool colors and light tints
Shorten room? Best to use warm or dark colors
Lengthen room? Cool, light, or dull colors; limited contrasts
Hide an undesirable feature? Surrounding color

Tip: Prime Mistake With 5 coats of paint on the wall a person asked his paint supply store why he couldn’t cover the stains on the wall. ” Did you prime” he was asked? “Yes - I used some leftover latex from the garage”. It was explained that latex paint isn’t primer. Primer provides bonding and stain blocking. Paint provides durability and color. Both are needed for a good job. Original “Kiltz” primer dries quickly and has been found to be one of the most stain blockers. Stain Blockers absorb instead of covering up the stain - so be sure the primer is completely dry to prevent bleed through.

Tip: Don’t like the Dust from sanding drywall Mud? Use a drywall wet-sander (Sponge with abrasive on one side) . With a damp sponge - use the coarse side for sanding and the fine side for smoothing. Wood Window painted shut? Try applying the paint to the window and the sash in separate processes. It is recommended to remove the sash when possible. Use a utility knife or sash knife to cut the paint before opening the window.

Tip: Break Time? Place Brush or roller in a plastic bag.

Break Time overnight? Double Bag and place in your refrigerator.

Tip: Painting a large area like a entire home? Sprayer Rentals are available for minimal $.

Tip: Paint Roller extension handle. It extends and is adjustable.

Brushes and Rollers
Selecting the right brushes and rollers is a crucial step in making your paint jobs look better while helping you to do your work more easily and efficiently.

Brushes : So many sizes and styles - How Do I Choose?
:-) Like anything in life knowledge is they key. If you are like myself this might seem like too much information. However - It is the little things that make the work go smoothly. Much of what has been learned here has been learned the hard way. I will try to share with you what has been learned from my mistakes along with tips from painters and the help of Sherwin-williams.

A paint brush is an ideal choice when painting trim, corners and small areas. Also, a specialty paint brush should be used for projects like painting furniture, decks and railings.

When selecting a brush, you will want to consider the following :
Bristle Type -
Nylon and polyester bristle: These synthetic materials are designed to hold their shape with todays popular latex paints. A good quality nylon and polyester blended brush is the best choice for all latex paints and coatings. Many painters prefer a synthetic brush for oil coatings as well.
Natural China bristle:High-quality natural China bristle brushes have qualities that control oil-based coatings for better flow and leveling for the smoothest finish. A natural China bristle brush is the best choice for oil-based paints, stains and varnishes

Brush Styles:
Angle sash: Bristles are precisely trimmed at an angle that allows painters to hold the brush more comfortably while painting trim and corners. Brush ends are rounded for a smooth , gradual paint stroke.

Trim:
Trim brushes have a straight cut-line and are also used for painting trim and corners. They can also be used for larger areas. Some painters prefer a straight edge versus an angled cut. Trim brushes also have rounded ends.

Wall: A wall brush is a larger brush with a straight cut-line. It is better used for larger areas like walls or side paneling. A wall brush has square ends.

Brush Size : Personal preference is always a factor in choosing a brush width, but a good rule of thumb is For small spaces, tight trim areas, touch-ups and detail work 2 1/2 to 3 inches: For any trim and corner work 4 to 5 inches: For larger areas like walls or side paneling a roller may come in handy or use a good Brush Quality.

You made it this far! You are incredible! Thanks for reading - really hope this helps.

Better brushes bring better results.
High Production Brushes: These brushes are recommended for painters looking for superior paint pick-up and release. High Production brushes deliver great results in less time. They pick-up and release more than 25 percent more paint than any other brush on the market. High Production brushes are available in a nylon/polyester blend for latex coatings and in a white China/polyester blend for oil-based coatings.
Nylon/Polyester and 100% Nylon Brushes:
A specific blend of nylon and polyester filaments make this brush a fine finishing tool that is very durable and easy to clean. The white nylon tips are precisely flagged and tapered for a sharp cut-line. These characteristics have made this line the most popular choice for latex paints for the past 15 years. Although nylon is a soft material, it is also the strongest and most expensive material in a paint brush. 100 percent nylon brushes offer extreme durability, even when used on rough or abrasive surfaces. 100 percent nylon brushes are finished using several hand-trimming steps to create a superior cut-in paint brush.
Black and White China Bristle Brushes:
By nature, Black China bristle is stronger and thicker coarse hair, which makes it the perfect bristle to use with oil-based paints and epoxies. The highest quality Black China bristles available are used in the Contractor Series line. White China bristle, by contrast, is soft and thin. A white China bristle brush is the perfect tool for stain, varnishes, polyurethanes and clear coatings. It lays these topcoats on with a glass-smooth finish. White China bristle brushes are suitable for oil-based paints if a softer flex tool is desired.
Black China / Ox Hair Blend Brushes: Ox hair is extremely fine and soft, creating an exceptional tool for fine finish work.
Roller Covers: Rollers help you paint large, flat surfaces in much less time than a brush. They are also excellent for use on all walls, stucco, concrete or any other flat surface.
Here are some options to consider when purchasing a roller cover:
Roller Cover Materials:
Nylon/polyester:
Synthetic roller covers are ideal for applying latex paints, They resist matting and hold their shape for a smooth finish.
Natural fiber covers: Roller covers that are made from natural fiber include mohair and lambs wool. They are ideal for oil-based coatings.
Blended covers: Roller covers made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibers are excellent multipurpose covers and can be used with all paints.
Roller Length: Standard roller length is nine inches.
For smaller areas, a four-inch or seven-inch roller cover. Larger area - walls & floors, 14-inch & 18-inch rollers may increase productivity.
Pile Depth : Roller covers vary in nap length.
The nap is determined by the SuRfaCe TeXtUrE to be painted.
1/4-inch, 3/16-inch: For very smooth surfaces like metal doors and plaster. 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch: For smooth and semi-smooth surfaces like drywall. 3/4-inch: For semi-rough surfaces like wood or a textured ceiling. 1-inch, 1 1/4-inch: For rough surfaces like stucco or a heavily textured ceiling. 1 1/2-inch: For extremely rough surfaces like concrete block.
Roller Quality As with brushes, the initial extra investment in higher quality rollers and covers will pay off in the final look and ease of application. Lesser quality roller covers may leave streaks or nap fibers on the painted surface.
Polyester Knit: Specially formulated for today is latex coatings. The highly crimped fibers offer the best protection against matting. Soft Woven: Rivals polyester knit in popularity. Recommended for both latex and oil coatings, they do a fine job with gloss and semi-glass coatings. Wool/Polyester Knit: Fifty percent of the roller cover fiber is natural wool, which allows for greater paint pick up and delivery. Fifty percent is polyester, which helps the roller keep its shape during prolonged use. The blend results in an excellent balance of productivity and low matting. Merino Sheepskin: Pick up and release more paint than any other roller cover. Many painters use Merino Sheepskin exclusively for any type of coating, claiming it lasts a long time with proper care. Mohair: Features a blend of soft natural angora mohair with synthetic fibers to produce the smoothest finish possible with a roller cover. Recommended for use with gloss and high gloss coatings. Brushes & Rollers Portions of above material was edited material from Paint Supplier

Tip: Painting Straight Lines is one of the hardest things to master. A Painting Edger may be used. When this edger is used two problems often occur. Bumps of Ceiling Texture are hit making a crooked line or paint gets on the edge of the roller. To prevent both of these problems place a painters metal shield or a straight trowel with tape over the edge against the ceiling. Your roller now rolls freely and if paint was on the roller it will go onto your trowel instead of the ceiling! (Stiff Paper or thin cardboard may substitute the trowel)
Tip 2: Using tape instead of the above method. Place the tape down the wall one eighth of an inch. When the tape is removed it will look like a caulk line and will not be noticed! If the paint is on the ceiling however It stands out! Remember to remove the tape immediately. Painter Friendly Tape is very deceitful. Seven Day tape should really stay on Seven minutes. One day is the max for any tape.

There are periods when to dare, is the highest wisdom. William Ellery Channing

By all means, do not say, If I can; Say, I will. Abraham Lincoln

You may wear out, but never give up.

Posted by Capital Remodeling

Dec 06 2008

The Wonders of Painting your Home for Sale

Article Written and Prepared by: Barbara Thorp

Let’s admit it, whatever our reasons for being attracted to a real estate property for sale, whether they be location, size, price, proximity, etc, etc, whatever they are, it still boils down to one thing: We are still primarily motivated by what we see.

Which is why the paintwork is very crucial when you’re considering putting up your home for sale. Indeed, paint spells the difference between a house that gets sold for a winsome price, and one that gets ignored.

Whether you need a major paint job for your home or just some minor touching up, only you can decide. But whatever you do, painting should be approached in a systematic manner.

The Basics in Painting.

If you have rooms that are on the small side, paint them with a lighter colour. Lighter colours make a room look larger. Conversely, dark colours make a room seem smaller.

Before you selecting colours, experiment with small patches of your house first. Colours in samples often translates to a very different appearance on your walls. To save money, time and frustration, buy a small amount of the colour of your choice and apply it to a small part of the wall in question. Let it dry and decide whether it is what you really want. Often, experimenting with colours can lead to spectacular results you didn’t plan on. So don’t be shy.

Remember to record the mix of the paint on the can so that whenever you need to re-order, you can effortlessly duplicate the right shade of colour.

What to Paint With.

Choosing the right paint depends on the particular area you’re painting. Generally, there are two paint types: water based or solvent based.

Go for water-based paints when doing walls and ceilings. They’re easy to apply, touch dry in 20 minutes, can usually be re-coated in two hours, and clean up in water.

A semi-gloss or satin finish acrylic, on the other hand, gives a hardy surface in high traffic areas, such as kitchens, family rooms or children’s rooms.

Flat or low sheen acrylic or vinyls are better suited for more formal areas like dining rooms, bedrooms and lounge rooms.

For ceilings, try a special ultra flat plastic known as ceiling white that helps mask imperfections. But choose one that doesn’t drip.

For areas that need constant cleaning, such as doors, windows and furniture, or walls subjected to frequent dampness, you can’t go wrong with solvent-based enamel paint. It gives hard-wearing surfaces a tough finish. Kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms are popular with enamel paint.

At the end of the day, the physical appearance of your home will be the reason a prospective buyer will make an offer. Paint your way to a successful home for sale then.

Posted by Capital Remodeling, Inc.

Dec 06 2008

Faux Painting Techniques

Author: Julie Lohmeier

In the last 10 years, faux painting techniques have gone from obscure to popular, from the realm of professionals to do-it-yourself projects. These techniques are not difficult although they can be time consuming (what decorating or remodeling project isn’t though) and require quick hands.

Called “faux” painting because these techniques mimic or create a false look of stone, texture, leather, and more, you will find that the styles fall into one of two types: additive or subtractive. Additive (also called positive) techniques simply mean that you add color onto the wall. Sponging is the most common of this type. Conversely, subtractive (also referred to as negative) techniques means you take paint off after it has been applied. Ragging is a common subtractive technique. Most negative techniques use glazes and require that you move quickly before the glaze dries.

When it comes to glazes, there are two types: latex (water based) or oil based. Latex is by far easier since it cleans up with soap and water, but oil based glazes provide longer working times and generally provide a harder, more durable finish. However, for do-it-yourselfers, I recommend latex glazes and working in small areas at a time. I have also seen solutions that you can add to the glaze to lengthen the working time. For your first glazing job, you may well want to consider using this additive available at finer paint supply stores.

Here are the various type of faux painting techniques:

Sponging: Probably the easiest method, you apply paint to a wall with a natural sea sponge. It provides a richly textured look. In addition to good looks, it’s a simple way to camouflage an uneven or repaired crack wall. Use a couple of colors over the base paint to add greater depth. Be bold or subtle; it’s up to you. You can use glaze or paint just as easily with this technique. I’ve seen this done in a negative manner, but it is most commonly performed as a positive method.

Ragging/Rag rolling: Typically a negative technique, you paint a tinted glaze over the base painted walls. The glaze should be tinted darker than the base coat, keeping in the same color family as the glaze allows some color through it as well. Either use a wadded up dry rag or twist a rag into a cylinder. Then dab or roll the rags to remove the glaze. You can use one or two colors over the base coat. You may also do this in a positive method like sponging for a softer look and texture.

Color Washing: In this additive technique, you apply the tinted glaze mixture over the base coat using a circular motion as if you were washing the wall. Use rags for a very soft look or a natural sea sponge for a more textured appearance.

Strié: Create a historical and aged texture to the wall, with this negative method. Roll tinted glaze over the base coat, then use a wall paper brush to make fine lines from top to bottom. The glaze should be darker than the base coat to allow the lighter base to show through the fine lines.

Striping: The only difficult part of this positive technique is getting your stripes straight. Be sure to use a level or drop a plumb line. Tape off your stripes, then paint every other one with glaze. If you use a bold color, you do not need to tint the glaze to get a delightful two-tone effect. For softer colors, you may wish to slightly darken the glaze although it is not necessary. This technique may also be combined with color washing as you color wash the stripes for more interest and texture. Of course, for a more dramatic look, you can use paint in complementary or various colors.

Dry Brushing: This is a positive method in which you use a small amount of paint on a brush in herringbone patterns to create the texture. You will need tow or three colors to achieve the best results.

Frottage: Using plastic sheets for this negative method, tinted glaze is applied over the base coat and then plastic sheets are applied and smoothed over the glaze. Once the wall is done, the plastic sheets are removed for a marbling effect.

Faux finishes can provide interest and texture to your rooms - and less expensively than wall paper. While you may need to block out a full day to do the work, by the end of the day, you can sit back and admire the rich, luxurious look of your new room.

Dec 05 2008

Paint Problems which we face

Author: Budda Oliver

Common areas where these problems occur first are places where there are high levels of direct sunlight, water collection, or other highly exposed areas of your home. Some of these areas include corners, window sills, door sills, edges, rooflines, etc.

Common Symptoms of Aging or Failing Paint

Fading Paint

Probably the most common problem occurring with aging paint is fading. Constant direct sunlight changes the chemical composition of the paint, leading to a lack of sufficient protection of your home. Highly faded paint can lead to other problems such as cracking or warping of wood. Applying a fresh coat of paint is the only way to fix this problem. Fading or poor color retention can also be a result of chalking of the coating.

Blistering Paint

Blistering paint is one of the many symptoms caused by water penetration or extremely high humidity levels. Blistering paint appears as just that: small to medium bubbles or blisters under the paint film, usually occurring on wood materials.

Blistering paint may also be caused by the paint being applied to a hot surface. If a coat of paint is applied to a surface when it is too warm, such as heated by direct sunlight, the vapors from the paint may become trapped under the paint film as the paint dries too quickly for it to escape. Similarly, if paint is applied to damp or wet wood, the moisture may become trapped in the same manner. Dew, rain, high humidity, and low quality paint or insufficient preparatory work will also contribute to paint blistering.

Posted by Capital Remodeling

Dec 04 2008

Painting Tips for Your Home Remodeling Plans

Author: Jim Johnson

Nothing can change the appearance of a room quicker and easier than painting the walls and trim. It’s also one of the least expensive home improvement projects that you can undertake, especially for the impact that it creates. So here are the steps that you need to go through to prepare a room for painting.

First of all get everything that you can out of the room. The less furniture and decorative items that you have to work around, the better. After you have done that take off the electrical faceplates and heating register covers. They are usually only held on by a couple of screws anyway, so it shouldn’t be difficult to take them off. Also remove all knobs and handles that could be in close proximity to the paint. Then mask off all of the switches and receptacles in the room, and cover all the heavy furniture that is left in the room with dropcloths or bedsheets.

It’s a good idea to protect the floor by running a 2 in. piece of masking tape around the edge of the entire room and then bringing your dropcloths right up to the edge of the tape.

Now is the time to remove old wallpaper if necessary, as its usually not the best idea to paint over wallpaper instead. Very often wallpaper will begin to curl a way from the wall eventually and can run your beautiful paint job.

At this point you will need to remove any paint that is chipping or peeling by scraping or sanding it off. The most important thing to keep in mind at this point is to only remove the old paint and not part of the surface itself. If the previous surface was glossy, then be sure to rough it up with some sandpaper before applying the paint.

After you are finished with scraping and sanding the walls and trim, now is the time to make sure that all the painted surfaces are clean, by washing them down with a phosphate free degreaser or cleanser. If there are mildewed areas, include some chlorine bleach in your solution to help kill the mildew. After this, let everything dry out for the next 24 hours or so.

While the room is drying, you can be masking off any areas that need to be protected. For instance, masking off the doorway if it will be a different color from the wall. If you are using a brush for painting, the kind of masking tape that you choose can be important. Most home improvement stores sell what is called ”painters tape” that prevents paint from seeping through to the surface underneath and yet is still easy to remove.

Once all of this is done, you can get started with your paint job. The best way to start is to cut in all of the edges of the room first. This usually means using a brush to paint the first 3 or 4 inches in from all edges of the walls. Once you have the wall outlined with the new paint color, you can then use a roller to finish off the wall easily and quickly.

Painting your own walls and trim is a simple home improvement task if you approach it in an organized way. It’s also well within the reach of almost all homeowners to be able to turn out an excellent, high-quality paint job. So why not pick a wall and get started right away?

Posted by Capital Remodeling

Dec 03 2008

Decorative and Faux Painting Is Fun But Don’t Start Until You Read This

Author: Dorrie Ruplinger

I think decorative and faux painting techniques look great, are fun to do, and add a personal statement to a room. I’ve been adding my personal look to the walls in my homes ever since my husband and I purchased our first “fixer-upper.”

When I first starting using faux and decorative painting techniques on the walls in our home it was a financially motivated action. We didn’t have a lot of extra money. I couldn’t afford new furniture or flooring for a room but I could afford to buy some paint. But just painting the walls a solid color seemed boring to me so I started exploring faux and decorative painting. It didn’t take me long to get hooked. Why do I like faux and decorative painting on walls so much?

1) It’s an inexpensive way to change the look of an entire room. Paint is the most economical way to change the look of a room.

2) A painting technique on the walls minimizes and hides cosmetic flaws such as surface cracks and less than perfect patching jobs.

3) It’s easy to change when you’re sick of it. Repainting a room that has paint on the walls is a whole lot easier and much less time consuming than stripping wallpaper off walls and preparing those walls for paint.

4) It adds your own personal look and style to a space. Color and texture are fun and interesting. An entire home painted the same off-white color is dull and boring to me. A faux painting technique can evoke any mood you want in a room whether it’s a Tuscan look, retro 70’s look, a country look, something elegant, a cheery bright look for a child’s room, or any other look you want.

5) The choices of techniques and paints are nearly endless. Some of the more popular technique choices include: sponging, ragging, dragging, color washing, stenciling, crackling, marbling, gilding, wood-graining, spattering, feather-dusting, and stippling. You could also use one of the specialty paint products on the market today such as Venetian plaster to create the look you want or buy a faux painting kit such as a Woolie painting kit to help make your project as fun and easy as possible.

While I highly recommend faux or decorative painting, there are a few things I’ve learned since I’ve started faux painting that I’d like to share with you. Some of these items are things to “not do” that I’ve learned the hard way. Others are tips and suggestions that were helpful to me.

1) Go to your local paint store or decorative painting store and look at the samples they have. For example, Home Depot has lots of different booklets and paint chips with faux paint finishes on them for you to look at and even take home to look at in your lighting. That pretty metallic finish on a paint chip in the store make look garish when you get it home and look at it in your home’s natural lighting.

2) Consider taking a class before doing your first project. Some paint stores and home improvement stores, such as Home Depot, offer free faux painting clinics and workshops. You can also find some very good faux painting classes for a reasonable fee by looking in your local paper or doing an Internet search.

3 Practice your technique on a piece of scrap wallboard before doing it on your wall. This is especially important if you are blending colors. A few years ago my son wanted his bedroom painted. He wanted me to use a Woolie (a great faux painting tool available at most paint supply stores) to blend together a burgundy and a caramel color. Each color looked great by itself, but when they got blended together too much a dark fuchsia color emerged. And anything resembling pink was not something my son wanted on his wall!

Because I had been faux painting for years I didn’t listen to my own advice about trying the technique on a piece of scrap board first nor did I buy sample sizes of paint to try out. I bought gallons because I wanted to save time. Luckily the store agreed to exchange the paint for me free of charge but we did have to paint over a wall and wait for it to dry before starting over with new colors.

4) Remember that the texture of your walls will dictate, to some extent, what faux painting techniques you can and cannot use. If your walls are smooth you can do just about any technique you want. But textured walls are very common, especially in newer homes. You may see striped walls in a brochure or on a sample wall and decide that’s what you want to do in your home; but if your walls are textured it’s going to be nearly impossible to achieve straight lines for your stripes. Keep in mind that faux finishes on paint chips from a store are done on a smooth surface. They will look a little different (but may still look very nice) if you do that same technique with the same colors on a textured wall.

5) If you’re going to do a faux technique in an entire room don’t start on the wall that people will first look at when they walk into the room. That means don’t start on the wall directly across from the doorway. Unless you’re a professional, it takes a little while for you to get your technique perfected in a room. Put that less than perfect start in the least noticeable part of the room.

6) If you get tired while painting and need a break, don’t stop in the middle of a wall. Stop at a corner. If you stop in the middle of the wall and don’t come back to work on the project again until after the paint is dry, you’re going to have a noticeable line on the wall. It won’t be pretty.

7) Think twice about mixing your own color with paint you have at home unless you are absolutely positive you’re going to have enough paint to do the entire job. If you mix your own color and run out of paint before you finish it will be time-consuming and challenging to match that color. You might be able to match it because many paint stores have specialty machines that can match a paint chip you take in, but if you’ve mixed together two different sheens of paint (for example let’s say you mixed a flat paint and a satin paint together) you’re going to have a hard time reproducing that same sheen. In some cases it may not be noticeable; but in other cases it will.

Posted by Capital Remodeling

Dec 02 2008

Exterior Painting

Author: Jim

Exterior painting for a house requires some advanced planning, the proper tools and the time to complete the job correctly. Exterior paint can add beauty and value to your home when you follow some easy preparation and process steps.

After you have selected the color or colors that will work for your home and tastes, professionals recommend renting a power sprayer to thoroughly clean the exterior and remove all loose paint and debris. This step will allow you to be able to apply the exterior paint smoothly and ensure that it will last for a long time.

After the exterior of the home is clean and dry, make sure that you have the proper tools to complete the exterior painting. A ladder that extends to the top of the home is important, as well as ladder mitts that cover the ends of extension ladders to prevent the ladder from scraping the exterior paint.

It is advisable to avoid inexpensive paints when considering an exterior paint job. This is because less expensive paints will not last as long, may fade with the weather, and begin to chip over time. Therefore, to have an exterior paint job that will last for several years and that will continue to be a source of pride for you and your family, do not skimp on exterior paint when it comes to cost.

Exterior paint can be applied with either a brush, roller, or paint sprayer. A paint sprayer will allow your exterior paint job to be completed much quicker than conventional methods. When using a brush for exterior painting, however, make sure that you purchase a brush that is well made and will not fall apart during the exterior painting process. Small rollers are easier to handle when you are attempting to paint the exterior of the home, and are more easily controlled in the exterior paint process.

One tip that comes from professionals is that if you must stop the painting process in the middle of the job, never end in the middle of a board or panel. When you begin painting again you may find that the board dries in two separate shades. Therefore, pause in the exterior paint job at the completion of a board or panel so that all of the paint will be uniform.

Posted by Capital Remodeling